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一种便于使用的流变改性剂,给肌肤带来优雅的柔软感觉

COSMETIC SCIENCE TECHNOLOGY 2018Joseph Albanese, Kate Butcher& Binhua Yang, Elementis Specialties Inc, USA & Germany

制备过程

一般来说,在生产周期的任何可行的阶段,在配方的油相中最相容的非极性组分中添加Bentone Gel PTISV。不需要加热或高压均质。然而,为了保证均匀性,必须克服它与流体成分之间存在的较大粘度差。我们建议使用中到高剪切混合设备,如Dispermat 分散机,以便在油相中适当分散Bentone Gel®,并在继续下一步加工步骤(如乳化或添加后续成分)之前达到均匀性。当“一锅加工”是不可能的,你可以简单地准备一个预混合的Bentone Gel与相容的油(s)在侧容器。其剪切变薄流变学允许容易地转移到主混合容器。在只有较低剪切混合设备的情况下,首先搅拌Bentone Gel,然后慢慢加入最相容的组分,始终确保混合物在每个阶段保持均匀。一项预防措施是必要的,那就是避免长时间的层流。

图9

季戊四醇四异硬脂酸盐有助于颜料的分散,并提供了一个优雅的润肤膜。从代表所有原型生成的流变图可以看出,Bentone Gel®PTIS V将其流变特性赋予了最终的配方。因为增加的屈服应力,organoclay有效稳定的颜料悬浮液(图8)。

Bentone Gel PTIS V睫毛膏的流动曲线显示低剪切粘度和触变性增加,应用性能增强(见图9)。


下图(图11)显示,在24℃的室温下,仅仅几周后,无有机粘土的睫毛膏就已经发生了强烈的相分离,而含有膨润土凝胶PTIS V的睫毛膏在我们的稳定性研究方案中始终保持粘性和稳定性。

图11


文献原文

an Easy-to-use Rheology Modifier that Brings an Elegant Cushiony Feel to the Skin

COSMETIC SCIENCE TECHNOLOGY 2018Joseph Albanese, Kate Butcher& Binhua Yang, Elementis Specialties Inc, USA & Germany

Processing

In general, one adds Bentone Gel PTISV to the most compatible non-polar components of the oil phase of a formulation at any convenient stage during the manufacturing cycle. There is no heat or high-pressure homogenization required. However, to assure homogeneity, one must overcome the large viscosity differential existing between it and components that are more fluid. We recommend the use of medium to high-shear mixing equipment, such as a Dispermat impeller, in order to properly disperse Bentone Gel® in the oil phase and reach homogeneity before continuing to the next processing step, such as emulsification or addition of subsequent ingredients. When "one-pot processing" is not possible, one can simply prepare a pre-mix of the Bentone Gel with compatible oil(s) in a side-vessel. Its shear thinning rheology permits easy transfer to the main-mix vessel. Where only lower shear mixing equipment is available, first stir the Bentone Gel and then slowly add the most compatible component gradually, always ensuring the mixture remains homogeneous at each stage. One precaution is necessary, and that is to avoid prolonged laminar flow.”

图9

The Pentaerythrity Tetraisostearate aides the dispersion of the pigments and provides an elegant emollient film. From the rheograms, which are representative of the ones generated for all of the prototypes, it is easy to see that Bentone Gel® PTIS V imparts its rheological properties to the finished formulation. Because of the increased yield stress, the organoclay effectively stabilizes the pigments in suspension (Figure 8).

图9

The flowcurve for the mascara with Bentone Gel PTIS V shows an increase in the low shear viscosity and thixotropy, which indicates enhanced application properties (See Figure 9).

图11

The photograph below (Figure 11) shows that after only a couple of weeks at room temperature, 24°C, the mascara without organoclay has already undergone strong phase separation, whereas the mascara with Bentone Gel PTIS V remains a viscous and stable product throughout the full term of our stability study protocol.

用于制备样品的分散机

德国VMA Dispermat 实验室和生产用的分散球磨设备


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